Propagating Plants a guide to sowing seeds and taking cuttings.
Propagating Your Own Plants Guide.
Sowing Seeds & Garden Seed Sowing

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SOWING   SEEDS   --------   FOR THE GARDEN

Propagating garden plants by sowing seeds is generally the easiest and the most natural method. The advantage is that most seeds are very cheap, you can buy in large numbers, and they are free from disease and can be treated before purchase for any possible infection. The disadvantage is that they are not always true to type as in other methods of propagation, cuttings for example, where you are making another plant from parts of the parent plant.

The requirements for seed germination are live seed, warmth, moisture and air. Be sure to use only fresh seeds; do not use old seed from previous years. In certain plants such as the Primrose and Delphinium it is mandatory that the seeds be fresh.

Though some seeds will retain their vitality from year to year, it is easier to purchase fresh seed. Nothing is more disappointing than to spend time sowing old seeds and end up with no result. Warmth is essential for germination of most seeds, but the actual temperature will vary for different varieties of plant. This information will be on the seed packet with the seed sowing instructions.

Warning; too much moisture can cause seeds to decay and fail, so go easy with the watering can.

You must have air present in the sowing compost; light porous compost not only contains air, but also is a good growing medium for tiny roots, so do not firm down the compost too much.

Warning; do not cover the seeds to deeply in the compost; a general rule is to cover the seeds only to the same thickness as the size of the seed being sown.

Food is not needed for germination, the seeds contain enough food to grow until the first true leaves have been formed, after that they have to draw food from the growing medium, always start your seeds in quality compost.

To hasten germination some seeds will need special treatment or they will just lie dormant and only germinate when conditions are exactly right for them to germinate.

Some hardy annuals require long, cold, dark periods in which to germinate.

Most half-hardy annuals, as used for bedding work and container planting, are easy to germinate.

Some seeds have to be soaked in water overnight, some have to have their casing chipped to allow moisture ingress.

Some seeds of trees, shrubs and alpines etc, require a treatment known as stratification to break dormancy, by placing them in layers of sand for up to twelve months for natural freezing and thawing. Alternativly the seeds can be imersed in damp peat moss in a refrigerator for several months before sowing in normal compost.

Some seeds are even covered in very dry straw and the straw set alight, breaking the dormancy by a flash of intense heat.

Don't think that because certain seeds require more time, more work and certain conditions, that the average flower or garden seed won't germinate for you. It will and you will soon have lots of seedlings to plant in your garden.

Always read the seed sowing instructions on the seed packet.


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Method     Propagating from seed     ------------

Any container that is rigid and capable of holding moist compost and has drainage holes, is suitable for seed sowing, but it is really best to invest in a few new standard seed trays.

These will be clean and disease free, if you do re-use old containers or trays it is always worth disinfecting them before sowing. A dilute solution of washing soda is an excellent and safe product to use.

Always ensure that the compost in the tray is level before sowing the seeds, if the compost has low spots the seeds will be buried too deep and will rot away before germinating. Also if buried too deep the seedling will run out of its stored food supply before emerging into energy producing sunlight.

Sow the seeds evenly across the compost; do not be tempted to sow the seeds too thickly, even if there are lots more seeds in the packet than you need. Larger seeds can be sown, spacing each seed individually.

When covering the seeds, do not cover the seeds to deeply in the compost; a general rule is to cover the seeds only to the same thickness as the size of the seed being sown.

Lightly firm the compost then lightly water, beware too much water can wash out the seeds. A good tip, after the first watering, is to cover each sown tray with a single sheet of newspaper cut to the size of the tray. This stops the compost drying out too quickly, water on to the paper and this will keep the compost just right for germination.

As soon as the seedlings emerge remove this paper. Some seeds require light to germinate and need to be sown without the benefit of covering; here a single sheet of newspaper placed on the tray will still benefit the germination process.

Always loosen the roots of the seedlings with a small fork (an old table fork for example) when you come to pricking out, this avoids breaking off the roots and damaging the plants.

When pricking out the tiny seedlings into larger containers always treat the new compost with "Cheshunt Compound" this stops the seedlings rotting off due to any infections in the growing medium. This is achieved by mixing the compound with slightly warm water in a watering can and gently watering in after pricking out the seedlings. See mixing instuctions on product label.

One final Warning; Beware of Mice; Mice like nothing more than new seeds and fresh young seedlings, so always make sure that the mice have gone away before sowing your precious seeds.






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OUTDOOR SEED SOWING INSTRUCTIONS     ----

Sowing outdoor seeds. Gardeners still sow seeds outdoors, but there is less room for error than when sowing indoors. There is of course no control over the weather; you have to sow when conditions are right, sowing when it's too dry the seeds may fail to germinate or if too wet the seeds may rot away. So it is best to prepare your soil in advance, dig the land over early in the year, this action aerates the soil, then when sowing time comes a light digging over with a fork will quickly dry out the soil and you can have a seed bed ready in a very short time.

When sowing outdoors the soil needs to be warm and moist, just damp enough to stick to your fingers but not so wet that you can make mud pies out of it. It always pays to wait until conditions are right even if it means delaying sowing until a few days later. Seeds sown later in perfect conditions will soon overtake seed sown early in inclement conditions.

If sowing patches of annual flower seeds, rake the ground thoroughly, breaking up any large lumps of soil until a fine tilth is produced. Then scatter the seeds evenly over the area, after which you gently rake the seeds into the soil until they sink below the surface. Then firmly flatten down the soil with a flat spade.

The same process is employed for the sowing of lawn seed. After any seed sowing beware of birds, they sit and watch you sow the seeds, then swoop down for a free meal as soon as you leave the garden. So it is wise to cover the area with bird netting for a few days, or a light dressing of hydrated lime should keep them off for that early crucial period.

Mice can also be a problem, but more so with larger vegetable seeds, like peas and beans. A special favourite with mice is sweet pea seed; your future crop can be devastated overnight.

Vegetable seeds are usually sown in drills, light ridges in the soil, the seeds are sown in the drills then soil is raked over the seeds to cover, then firm down the soil as before. Stick to the general rule of not covering the seeds any thicker than corresponds with the size of the seed concerned.

Try not to sow the seeds to thickly, however if you do all is not lost, you can always thin the plants out once the seedlings have emerged and grown to a manageable size.

I am frequently asked about runner beans, these are a subject on their own, many articles having been written about their cultivation. Suffice to say that if you do sow outside get the soil right, bean seeds soon rot if the ground is too wet when planting and don't overcrowd them, bean plants grow big.


Always carefully label each sowing.


LINKS TO SEED HOUSES ON THE NET     ---


  • Organic Seeds
  • Parkers Bulbs
  • Plants of Distinction
  • Plantworld Seeds
  • Richters Herb Seed
  • Robinsons Onion Seed
  • Seeds by Size
  • Select Seeds
  • Seymour Seeds
  • Suttons Seeds
  • Thompson and Morgan
  • Tuckers Seeds
  • Unwins
  • Wild Flower Seed
  • Yates Seeds Aus



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    Alpine


    Glossary of Terms.
    Propagation.
    Pricking out.
    The process whereby small seedlings are transferred to more spacious quarters.
    Germination.
    The process where seeds begin to develop into the plant.
    Acid loving plants.
    Lime loving plants.
    Soil is measured by its Ph or alkaline level some plants love acid soil some love alkaline soil get it wrong and the plant suffers. There are numerous soil testing kits on the market.
    Compost.
    Most compost available at retail outlets is derived from peat, although there are several other alternatives peat remains the most popular.



    Seed Propagator

    Free Plants
    Many commited gardeners collect their own seeds.



    Guide
    Wait until the seed is fully ripe, there should be no sign of growth. Collect your seeds on a dry day, damp seeds will quickly go mouldy and deteriorate. Store the seeds in postal envelopes, (Paper Not Plastic) label each envelope with name of plant, where collected and date collected. Store in a cool but dry location, away from mice and other pests.
    Protect from frost.
    Please note. Seeds from F1 Hybrid plants will not come true to the parent plant.


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    I am often asked if plants collected in the wild will grow in a persons garden.
    In the interests of conservation collecting plants from the wild is frowned upon these days.
    If you do wish to grow wild flowers many seed houses now offer a wide range of wild flower seeds.
    So if you so desire, you can grow wild flowers without endangering the future, in the wild, of some very rare plants.


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        Glossary.

    ANNUALS. Plants which perform all their growing functions in one year, flowering and leaving seed for the following year's generation before dying at the onset of winter.

    PERENNIALS. Plants which can live for several years, some of these varieties do not produce seed until mature, which can take many years.

    BIENNIALS. These plants flower and produce seed in the second year of growth then die.

    To complicate matters, some of the bedding plants sold as annuals are actually perennials or biennials.


        Glossary.
    Vegetative propagation.
    Many plants can be propagated by taking leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, or even root cuttings.
    Many shrubs and trees are propagated by grafting a bud of a chosen plant on to a suitable, often more vigorous, rootstock to give enhanced performance.
    As part of the original plant, young plants produced in these ways are true copies of the parent plant.
    Seeds can sometimes produce a slight variation from the last generation. Some people like to spot these variations and encourage them.
    Just think, you could even end up propagating a new strain of a plant which might make you a fortune.


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