Q.     First off, love your web site...thanks for being around. Hi, I have a very nice Camellia in my garden. However, the leaves are turning yellow and a lime green shade. Each time this has happened before with other Camellias that I have had, they have eventually died.

What do I need to feed this Camellia in order to restore it to dark green leaves and heath? I live in New Zealand and it is spring here now.
Many thanks, Cheryl.

A.     Your camellia is suffering from high alkaline soil conditions. Camellias need acid soil, spread plenty of garden peat around the plant, feed with an acid fertiliser, sometimes sold as heather fertiliser. Also feed with Epson salts (magnesium sulphate), magnesium is needed to produce the green in the leaves. Try to water with collected rainwater, which is also acid, rather than tap water.

Q.     Dear Sir, Can you advise why my "Ballet Queen" Camellia, which is in a large tub, South Facing, & Hardy has not flowered at all this season? Many Thanks Trevor

A.     Camellias are not meant to be planted south facing, in the northern hemisphere. In the early spring the buds are often frozen overnight and if they thaw out too rapidly in the morning sun, damage results and you get no flowers. The opposite is true in the southern hemisphere. Other possible reasons; tub too dry over winter, compost not acid enough.

Q.     I planted a jalapeno pepper over a month ago, and so far it is growing great. In fact, I believe it is starting to fruit. I'm so excited about it! Well, I was wondering if jalapeno is a perennial or annual plant and I'm crossing my fingers hoping it is a perennial. The plants look great in my sunny backyard. I used it as a borderline. I'm not worried about frost because I'm from Hawaii. It's so warm out here. If it turns out it is an annual, how long will it last? Thanks for you help.
Aloha, Ross G.

A.     Jalapeno peppers are annual I'm afraid and the plant starts to deteriorate after the fruit has ripened, but you can save your own seed. Please note saved seed will not be true to the parent if the plant is an F1 Hybrid. Most gardeners buy glasshouse-grown plants in early March, people in favoured areas, like yourself, can plant a second crop in August.
Aloha from Valecroft

Q.     I have a perennial bed that is being taken over by thistle weed. When I dig it up by the root it comes back even more. Is there anything I can do over winter to have them gone by spring? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks so much. Trish

A.     You could use a systemic weed killer, there are many brands widely available; this is absorbed by the plant and kills by disrupting the cells in the plant. If you cannot spray due to other plants nearby, you could mix the compound and paint it onto the individual thistles. Repeat the treatment as and when necessary, they should be gone by spring. Read the instructions on the product label, not safe for children.

Q.     I planted a hydrangea last summer. It was very small but the blossoms were beautiful. This summer the plant itself is at least twice the size as last year, thick and green, but I never got one blossom. Last Fall I cut it all off before the snow came. Was that my mistake? It certainly didn't stunt its growth but what happened to the flowers? Before I cut it off again I'd like to know if it is the wrong thing to do.

Thanks for your help! Your website is a great resource! Bunny

A.     To keep a dwarf plant, it is recommended to cut your hydrangea down too about 20 inches. Hydrangeas need plenty of food, well-rotted farmyard manure if possible. Also feed with a fertiliser containing iron. Hydrangea needs to build up a tight root system before flowering happily.

Q.     I have a question about my 2 hydrangea bushes. Should I cut them down for the winter and if so how far? Also, I was wondering if there was anything I could do, along with staking, to help support the stalks in late summer when they are heavy with blooms? Thanks in advance for your advice, Carol-Ann

A.     To keep a dwarf plant, cut the plants down to about 20 inches height. I am afraid that I do not know of any other method of supporting the flower heads. There are various plastic support frames but even they have to be supported on canes.

Q.     My apple trees of 5 years need pruning. Last year they produced a small crop but they were all spit so I treated them with a spray and this year had my first although small edible crop. The problem now is that all the branches are long thin and very straggly I need to prune but am worried in case I ruin them and finish up next year with little or none. Could you please advise me as to how I should deal with this?
Many thanks Eddie

A.     If your trees are free standing, trim the tree to a neat shape, cutting off any wayward branches. This will restrict wind damage and allow the fruit maximum sunlight. Once bush apples have formed a good shape they need little pruning. If you are training the apples to a trellis, remove the downward growing shoots. Always remove dead and damaged branches. A grease band (a widely available horticultural product) placed around the trunk of the tree will trap many pests before they reach the buds.

Valecroft

Q.     When is the best time to split and/or transplant my Hydrangea?
Terri Anne

A.     Now is the best time to transplant your hydrangea, leave the stalks about 10 inches tall. Divide with two garden forks inserted in the centre of the root ball back to back and lever the roots apart. Feed with a fertiliser containing iron. Well-rotted cattle or horse manure in the bottom of the planting hole will also be of great benefit.

Q.     How do you recommend that I plant my bulbs in area that currently has flowering Portulaca, without killing the latter? Thank you in advance. Chanie

A.     There are special bulb planting trowels widely available that just dig a small round hole and deposit the bulb in the soil.

Q.     I am interested in knowing what types of small hardy shrubs (preferably flowering types) that I could plant in an area that receives no sunlight up until 5:00 pm. please advise... Jack

A.     Trollius; aquilegia; peony; lily of the valley; corydalis; forget me nots; Spanish bluebell; vinca; viola; campanula isophelia; hardy cyclamen; asparagus fern; hardy fuchsia. Shrubs: Hypericum Rose of Sharon; Spirea Anthony Waterer: Cotoneaster; Dwarf Rhododendron. Dwarf Azalea.

Q.     I am burning "Alder" in a fireplace insert and would like to spread the ashes throughout the winter into the garden. Are there any plants or shrubs I should avoid? Garden consists of mainly Rhododendrons, Blueberries, Raspberries and Strawberries. I live on the north coast (Masset) on the Queen Charlotte Islands/Haida Gwaii and our winters are normally very wet but moderate temperatures. Thank you Jack.

A.     Not a good idea, too much ash will upset the balance of the soil and your plants will suffer. Also you will form an impervious layer on top of the soil, stopping water getting to your plants.

Q.     My father lives in a Toronto senior's apt. During the summer months he has containers of plants on his balcony. Would spring bulbs grow and bloom in his large plastic containers. If they would, can you suggest which bulbs I should purchase for him. Thank you.

A.     Most of the spring bulbs will grow in containers, dwarf daffodils, dwarf tulips, snowdrops, crocus, and hyacinths are the most popular. There are special composts for bulbs available at your local garden outlet. Don't over water; mix with a few winter pansies.

Q.     My friend attempted to grow tomatoes in his basement last winter. He installed grow lights and got huge, healthy-looking plants but the fruit was only the size of peas. What went wrong?

A.     Three possible answers.

The growing lights need different light spectrum tubes for the different stages of growth, e.g. a light scenario for early spring growth is different to one for ripening. The plants used by your friend may have been one of the cherry tomato varieties, chosen by error. Tomatoes need a very high potash fertiliser when flowering and producing fruit.

Q.     Date Palm.

I have a medium sized date palm, too big to bring indoors, growing in a large pot on my decking. How is it best protected from frosts over the winter? I have wrapped the plant & leaves in newspaper at present. Is this OK or is it a bad idea?

A.     Paper will make the plant sweat and rot, the usual method is to wrap with straw secured with twine. Garden fleece is also useful. I would advise you to consult a plant expert at your local garden centre for a local assessment of your needs.

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Q.     I purchased 12 "earliglow" strawberry plants. There was a "tip" inside that the plants can be grown indoors in a strawberry pot. I do not have a strawberry pot. Is there an alternative pot I could use? Do you think I would have good results with a 28" long window "flower" box? What is a strawberry pot anyways? Thanks for your help

A.     A strawberry pot is a 1-meter high tubular pot with spouts sticking out of the sides at various heights. They are widely available or you can make one up from plastic sewer waste pipes from your builders yard. You will need plenty of light to succeed. Your window flower box should also give good results.

Q.     Hi, Love your web site. I would like to know how to winter geraniums. I was given two beautiful hanging baskets they bloomed all summer but now they are turning brown and the new growth is very small. I live in western Oregon.

A.     Leave the geraniums in the hanging basket and place in some dark corner of the house or garage, keep frost-free and slightly damp the soil about once a month. New shoots will appear in spring, then re-pot into fresh compost. Watch out for mice.

Q.     I live in the Houston, Texas area and have pomegranate trees. My question is what is making a hole in the side of the pomegranates and eating the inside. I don't know if it's birds, rats, or mice, but something likes them. Have you ever heard anything like this and if so I'd sure like to know what it might possibly be? Thanks, Ron Lee

A.     Sorry cannot help you on this one, try your local University agricultural extension department.

Q.     Hello to you I have a hybrid tea rose (fragrant cloud) which I planted 2 years ago I feed it twice a year & water it copiously but the problem is the flowers fade very quickly is there anything I can do?
Thank you from Mike.

A.     Unfortunately Fragrant Cloud flowers do tend to have a short life, so nothing much you can do about it.

Q.     I have a hibiscus tree that I bring in the house during the winter months. I guess I would like some pointers on how I should prune this tree so it is fuller in the spring. I have waited all summer for it to bloom with no luck. Now, most of the leaves have dropped and I have flowers like crazy. Would it hurt to prune it at this time with all of the flowers and buds that are on it?

A.     Best to wait until spring, if you prune now the wounds will not heal due to lack of sunlight and they will go mouldy and rot the plant.

Q.     I'm not a gardener; however, I have an interest in herbs and have managed to successfully grow parsley, coriander, oregano and thyme in my huge and largely untended garden (disgusting I know, but I'll get round to it). What happens to herbs in winter, will they grow back?

Lesley, Aberdeenshire

A.     Your oregano and thyme should survive the winter, the others alas not. There are many herbs, which are perennial; a good seed catalogue usually lists annual and perennial herbs separately. Note perennials are plants, which live for more than one year.

Q.     Dear Sir, Madam, I have just picked the last of my runner beans, which are now tough and stringy. Can you tell me the best way to dry and store the seeds for re-use next year.

Thanks, Jim Isle of Sky

A.     Store the pods in a well-lit dry frost-free area until the pods have gone white. Then open and remove the bean seeds and place them in paper mail envelopes. Keep them dry through the winter.

Q.     Can you please tell me if grass seeds in an unopened bag will go bad and if indeed they do expire at some time? Thank you.

A.     All grass seed deteriorates fairly quickly, but if it is sealed in an unopened foil bag it will live for some years but not forever. To test germination, you can spread a handful of seeds on to some kitchen towel about three sheets thick. Keep the paper damp and the seeds will produce shoots in a few days if still alive.

Q.     Bramley apple trees.

Hello, Would I be able to dig up a young tree that has self-set from its mother, and could I resite and plant out to successfully grow another tree? I believe that apple trees are grafted onto rootstock. Would this be possible at all?

Many thanks. JC

A.     If the young tree is within four meters of the tree trunk it is likely to be growing from the root of the tree, which is the rootstock not the Bramley, and therefore useless for apple production. If the young tree has grown from a seed it could be a Bramley, but if there are other varieties of apple in the area it could be anything. Grafting apples is for the expert only and not worth the trouble to the average gardener.

If your Bramley is especially tasty, or such and you want a young plant from that particular tree, there are specialist fruit tree nurseries, advertising on the net and in gardening magazines, who will graft a bud from your tree on to an appropriate rootstock.

Q.     My roses bushes have caught something (black spots on the leaves only) - it has also spread to a tree that is planted behind the roses. What can I do? It is early October and I am about to cut the roses back, but should I be treating them with something? I have no idea what kind of tree it is. I would prefer to save the roses! Thank you in advance for your help!

A.     This is some form of blight; roses are often affected by blight at this time of year, after cutting back and having disposed of the prunings, spray the plants with a copper fungicide. This will kill any infection remaining on the plant and stop it carrying over to next year.

Q.     Hello: I guess this is really more of a fall question than it is a late summer one. I'm wondering if carnation plants should be clipped quite low prior to winter or if they should be left unclipped.

Also I'm wondering if the seeds that remain might be useful in the spring to start new plants if they are allowed to dry for the winter. Many thanks. Bob. New Brunswick, Canada

A.     Your carnations are worth trimming down if showing signs of mould, which could rot the crown of the plant, but otherwise not worth the bother. The little rodents will trim them when the weather gets hard. Seeds are worth saving, but do not sow too early in the spring, carnations flower best the second year. If the plants are F1 Hybrids the seedlings will not come true to the parent plant.

Q.     I seem to get all sorts of info/misinform re the cutting back of perennials: especially my hydrangeas (mostly Blue Nikko and lace) - when should I prune them, how much and do I prune the entire plant or just the current blooms?

Also: I have some very old and by now very "leggy" rhododendrons and lilacs - when and how much do I prune them back? Many thanks Nancy

A.     Hydrangeas, you could trim back by about one third, although it is usual to just trim to maintain a decent shape of plant. Trim now if needed. Rhododendrons will be covered in buds now, so you prune directly after flowering, in spring. Lilac can be trimmed now, but not too heavily.

Q.     Hello, my question is do you know whether it is ok to move an Aucuba shrub to another destination in the garden, this time of year?

A.     The first job is to dig out a hole for replanting. Then attempt to dig the bush out with as large a root ball of soil as you can handle. This leaves the fine roots around the stump of the tree firmly attached to some soil. Do not let the bush dry out when out of the ground. Beginning of October is fine for moving Aucuba. Remember Aucuba are evergreen and lose water all through the winter, therefore constant water is needed the first winter after transplanting.

Q.     I have been trying to get my azaleas to grow larger and haven't seen much results. I put in 4 plants about 6 years ago. Almost every year 1 or 2 would die. So I replaced them. In the last 2 years they haven't died but don't seem to be getting any bigger.

I have been adding azalea fertilizer to them about every 3 months. I want them to thrive but I don't know what I'm doing to prevent this. They are in a shady area and I have been watering them. Can you give me some tips to try? Have I been doing something wrong? Betty

A.     Your azaleas could be dwarf azaleas, so they may never get big. There are dwarf, medium and large varieties. Azaleas have fine surface roots, which can dry out, they are forest floor plants and they will benefit from a generous layer of garden peat around the plant.

Q.     I usually keep my geraniums in my flower boxes from season to season. For the first time this summer, my geraniums have bacteria or fungus on them. The leaves got spots on them and then turned brown and mouldy. I sprayed them with a fungicide that I had used on my roses and they got better.

They still show signs of the problem. Leaves have turned brown and have fallen off since July. My question is whether to keep them over the winter or not. Should they be thrown away along with the soil and new soil and flowers put in next spring? I don't want a repeat next year. Will the problem become dormant over the winter months in the basement where I keep them and begin again next season if I keep the same ones?

A.     Definitely destroy the plants and all connected items; disease will over-winter with the plants.

Q.     Great Web Page!

I have just planted some mums and was wondering if I can save the seeds and plant them from seed next year. If this is possible, please tell me how to get and store the seeds until next spring. Thank you in advance for your help! Steve

A.     Most chrysanthemums are grown from cuttings taken over many generations of the plant; if you were to save the seed the resultant plants would probably bare no relation to the parent plant. Also, flowering so late in the season, it is difficult to produce seed due to the damp conditions. There are some bedding chrysanthemums grown from seed but the seed for these is produced in a hot environment. So not worth the effort.

Q.     Can you please help me? I have seen so many times beautiful displays of tulips coming up through forget-me-nots. How do I, a totally inexperienced gardener, achieve this? I live in London and normally plant the tulip bulbs in early November. When should I plant the forget-me-nots, before or after this, and as small plants or seeds? Thanks in advance for your help. Sarah

A.     Forget-me-nots are biennial plants, sown late spring one year for flowering in the spring of the following year. You will find plants on sale now; there is no rush to plant, any time before the frost will do. But if you plant the forget-me-nots now they will have time to establish themselves for winter.

Valecroft.

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